DAVID KOMA A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Backstage at David Koma's show had an air of controlled chaos - final adjustments were being made, shoes fitted and the line-up rehearsed. Taking a closer look at the collection, theatrical elements such as glittery detachable collars met with futuristic looking dresses, with a colour palette that included black, white, blue and plum, with a few multicolour

An influence was apparently, Marchesa Luisa Casati, the Italian heiress, and this was apparent in the rich colours and ruffles. A modern twist came in the oval cut outs that appeared throughout, and high necks, which reminded me of a 1960s imagining of air hostesses of the future.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

FASHION EAST A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Maarten Van der Horst's collection was not the first at London Fashion Week to ignore pre-conceived notions of winter attire in favour of light and colour, but his did feel like the most summery of this season's shows. Oversized roses, baby blue pleated miniskirts and candy coloured knickers felt like St Trinians in the springtime; the candy colours wouldn't have looked out of place at a village fete, and overall the mood was more suited to the upcoming springtime than the dark days and cold nights the autumn and winter bring. The collection was, however, sweet and incredibly playful, yet with a grown-up twist in items such as the printed trousers and jackets - and it was great to recognise Atalanta Weller's platform mary-janes as the footwear of choice.

Marques Almeida's collection provided a stark contrast to the sweet girlieness with a collection based around ripped denim and neon accents. Inspired by "Beautiful Losers", the duo perfectly summed up a listless teenage mood, and I suspect took many in the audience back to faded memories of grungy Camden town days. The grunge aesthetic was accentuated by rucksack, clunky shoes and slightly slicked down hair that had an unwashed but charming feel to it.

Finally, James Long finished off proceedings with a collection of pure opulence. Heavy Baroque tassels and intricate knits combined with beading, leather and velvet made gave a kind of Russian flair to the collection, which felt like it had the most depth of all the Fashion East offerings. The richness of textures and colours were really sophisticated for a new designer, and rounded off the show perfectly.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

FRED BUTLER A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Another show that Kim was working on behind the scenes, Fred Butler's salon show felt very Harajuku-inspired; a combination of the cute colours of pink, green and white, knitwear and the wigs sported by the models felt like a Manga fantasy brought to life. The geometric body armour wouldn't have looked out of place on a Japanese cartoon princess either, while the headpieces were clearly origami inspired. There was a live soundtrack provided by Charli XCX which added a fun spontaneous touch that personally I think should be a more regular feature at Fashion Week.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

MICHAEL VAN DER HAM A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Michael Van Der Ham's girls came down the catwalk with exuding confidence and purpose and sporting 1940s Hollywood waves showing the Dutch designer's collection to be a rich collage of glamour, femininity and fabric. Lush jacquard shimmered amongst colourful prints, with the silhouette remained resolutely womanly, and the palette optimistic. Van der Ham's signature layering of fabrics and textures was out in force, and the variety within the pieces kept the whole collection fresh and youthful while still elegant. The best part was being able to view a designer that seems to be really getting into his stride, as was obvious from such a strong collection.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

ACNE A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Guests at the Acne show were greeted by delicious (and strong) red campari cocktails, which provided some refreshment as the fashion industry filed in. As the show began, it was immediately clear that a strong motif was the belt - wide, waisted with a large square of metal, it seemed to be almost a modern take on the obi belt. The colours of the collection were strong; yet another show that mostly eschewed black for richer colours such as sumptuous oxblood leather, reds, deep greens, and the odd flash of brights like yellow and neon green. The silhouette was a constant - the pencil skirt is absolutely key, and the shapes rarely veered away from this, apart from in the trousers, which the label always seems to do well. Afterwards, we were treated to a surprise party, when, after the models filed backstage, waiters appeared from the shadows offering more cocktails and mini-burgers. A perfect way to round off the day, and for some, the highlight of the week.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

LOUISE GRAY A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Louise Gray was a riot of colour, pattern and texture, and one of the most memorable collections of London Fashion Week so far. There's always something of the tribal in her work, fused with a strong air of urbanity too, and the headdresses added something almost ceremonial to the proceedings. Geometric print, sequins, graffit and sequins whirled together, but rather than looking a mishmash, it was a feast for the eyes. Despite all the hustle and bustle, this was a grown-up collection, proving that maturation doesn't have to mean dilution when it comes to design.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

PAUL SMITH A/W12 AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

The atmosphere at the Royal Horticultural Halls was as refined and elegant could be expected from such a household name as Paul Smith. The girls came down the catwalk looking like they meant business, dressed in mannish overcoats and (often) flat shoes.

Something about the lack of a heel on the catwalk always lends an entirely different feel to a show - it speaks of casual elegance and reassured grace, which is something that we must know we can expect from this maestro of British style. Flashes of colour popped out in the peacock blue that kept cropping up, and little details such as delicate gold spectacles chains made for a characteristically polished collection.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer

CRAIG LAWRENCE A/W12 SALON SHOW AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Craig Lawrence's knitwear collection brought together deep browns, orange accents and shimmery metallics in a show that felt sophisticated and luxurious, despite the colour inspiration of National Express coach seats.

Ladylike full skirts featured, along with longer lengths that were slinkily sheer for a younger wearer. Much of it tapped into the 90s vibe that seems to be here to stay, and the snuggly cropped jumpers gave an overall glam-grunge feel to the collection. The glistening metallic yarn cut through the dense browns, meaning that the richness of palette and texture set a perfect autumnal scene.

SHAO YEN A/W12 PRESENTATION AT LONDON FASHION WEEK: BY KATIE TILLYER

Shao Yen's presentation was another show that drew upon what appears to be the colours of the season; orange and bright blue. Luxurious accents of fur and tweed combined with sensuous sheer fabric were given a playful sporty touch with the matching baseball caps, white sports socks and pristine new trainers. The oversized tweed suit paired with flat sneakers was an interesting silhouette that not many designers would go for, but Yen didn't shy away from body-con in other pieces. The oranges and turqoises would have seemed more like a spring/summer choice, but incorporated into knitwear they managed to be autumnal with added sunshine. It's not so often that a collection features diverse motifs that intertwine seamlessly to completion; this was a treat for the eyes.

Images and text by Katie Tillyer